Thinking of getting rid of a bedroom to expand another? Make your choice carefully.

Removing a bedroom is one of those home-improvement blunders that can ding a home’s worth, even if it creates a larger bedroom — or other living space — in its place.

The reasoning is simple: The more bedrooms a home has, the higher the price it can usually command.

Listing prices are set by looking at what comparable homes are selling for in the same market, and the number of bedrooms is an important characteristic used to compare two properties. “When you start eliminating bedroom space, you’ve completely changed the comparable value of your home in the neighborhood,” said David Pekel, president of Pekel Construction and Remodeling, in Wauwatosa, Wis.

Reducing the number of bedrooms also means fewer potential buyers interested in your home. “There are people who won’t look at two-bedroom or three-bedroom [homes],” said Brendon DeSimone, a real-estate agent in New York and author of the book “Next Generation Real Estate.” The typical home purchased over the last year was a single-family home with three bedrooms and two baths, and a total of 1,870 square feet, according to the National Association of Realtors’ annual Profile of Home Buyers and Sellers — just something to consider for your Atlanta bathroom remodel or your home renovation.

There’s a good chance that not even a sprawling master will get them to change their minds.

Big master bedrooms that resemble luxury hotel suites were once a popular home feature, Pekel said. And while there are certainly some buyers who will be wowed by that, the trend is waning, he said. Homeowners with these big bedrooms often find that the extra furniture are places for clothes to collect and they have no desire to work at their bedroom desks, he said. (The exception: families that take in a relative who wants their own private space, removed from the rest of the home.)

Pekel has come into contact with more homeowners who want to break a big bedroom up into two rooms instead of the other way around, he said.

If you’re lucky enough to have a master bedroom on the first floor without having to deal with stairs, you’ll most likely want to keep it intact, said Michele Silverman Bedell, chief executive of Silversons, a residential agency based in Westchester, N.Y. Baby boomers, foreseeing a day when they can’t get up and down stairs as easily, will pay a premium for this feature, Bedell said. She sold a home in White Plains this summer with a first-floor master that was listed for $1.385 million and sold for $1.5 million after 19 days on the market and multiple bids.

All that said, the impact of removing a bedroom will differ depending on how many bedrooms you start out with. If you have a five- or six-bedroom home, you might have a bedroom to spare without too much of a financial impact, Bedell said. If you have several bedrooms but they’re small (say, less than 8 feet by 10 feet), you also might justify combining two, she added. But keep in mind that a lot of buyers typically want separate rooms for their children, along with a guest room, she said.

Of course, if resale value isn’t a concern, none of this matters at all. “Everything is relative to what the homeowner’s long-range intent is,” Pekel said. Those who plan on staying in the house until they die — and there are a growing number of people who intend on aging in place — might not care at all about what the next buyer will want, he added. But if you’re at all concerned about your home’s value, you’ll probably want to discuss the potential financial impact of a renovation with your remodeler or real-estate agent first.

Other improvements that can have a detrimental effect on a home’s value:

Removing closets

Several years ago, Bedell had a client who took the closet out of the master bedroom and made a huge master bath. Big mistake. This change made the home much harder to sell. “People need closets,” she said. “They’ll walk in and count the number of closets per room.”

Turning the garage into living space

Most people have cars they’d like to put a roof over, DeSimone said, so getting rid of a garage makes a home less appealing to a lot of people. This renovation also will remove valuable storage space for many homeowners. While the importance of a garage may vary by location, 74% of recent buyers said that having a garage is extremely or very important, according to a recent survey of 7,500 people throughout the country by Crescent Communities, a real-estate investment and operating firm. Bedell’s advice: If you’re going to turn a garage into a family room, office or extra bedroom, leave the garage doors on the outside. When you go to sell, a buyer can easily turn the space back into a garage without too much trouble.

An overabundance of wallpaper

Yes, wallpaper can be removed, but it can be a difficult endeavor — especially if there’s a lot of it throughout the home, Bedell said. And this goes for overdoing just about any finish. She recalled a home that had an entrance hall covered with mirrors; it would have cost thousands of dollars just to remove them, she said.

All of this isn’t to say you shouldn’t take on any of these improvements. But if you do, if possible, “do it in a way that you can put it back when you go to sell,” DeSimone said.

You know the house in your neighborhood, the one with the perfect entry, warm lighting, tidy landscaping. It has that certain something known as curb appeal. Here is our secret recipe for becoming the best looking face on the block.

The front door is a great starting point and can provide a huge change with minimal disruption. If you have the time and budget, a new front door with welcoming glass and substantial hardware can’t be beat. Need to work with what you have? Paint cures all and if your existing door is plain Jane, try a bold color. Black and red are classics but how about pumpkin, canary yellow, minty green, Tiffany box blue?  Hardware can provide the jewelry for your mini makeover and door numbers, mail slots, and door knockers can add to the accessories. Think about your nearby lighting. Are these fixtures you would like to keep? Do you want the door hardware to match? There’s no rule that says it needs to. Oil rubbed bronze or black light fixtures look beautiful with an aged brass door knob.

Exterior features like window boxes and shutters can add character and charm to your exterior elevation.  Details like these don’t need to be traditional in style. A modern cement planter with sculptural plantings can soften a home’s contemporary edges.

Lighting can be an often overlooked feature when renovating. Running electrical outside for a sconce or landscape light is an easy add on when the electricians are working elsewhere in your home. Don’t let the opportunity get away to subtly light a beautiful maple or cast a warm glow over an entrance.

Stone or slate steps, a shelter or covering over a door, a small patio area or porch are all features that can be added without huge expense. Green grass and well maintained plantings of course contribute to your home’s appeal.

Atlanta has a climate that makes a perfect partner for a screened porch. Spaces like these can be used for at least three seasons. With the addition of a fireplace or heater, the heartiest among us can use them into winter. We have done many screened porches over the years and they remain one of our favorite types of projects.

With any project, we like to let the architecture of the home lead the way. We can retain design elements found in the house or we can create a space that is a true departure from the rest.

If your screened porch is coming off a first floor that is raised off the ground, we typically use a wood floor product designed for exterior porch applications. A tile bluestone or slate tile is also an option. We are careful to create the correct slope for water to escape and prevent pooling and then rot. If your porch is meeting the home on a ground floor level, we can employ a greater variation of materials on the floor. Maybe a reclaimed brick laid in a herringbone pattern?

The wall elements of a screened porch can incorporate some elements of nature. We often add cedar shake to the gable ends or maybe add some stained wood brackets. The ceiling can also be exposed creating a rustic and casual feeling. Maybe your tastes run to the more classic cottage style? Beaded board or paneling painted and treated to repel the elements are terrific additions.

Screened porches can be a true extension of the home and the comforts we find there. Clients are interested in electrical outlets, lighting, ceiling fans, and even television mounts. A screened porch can house outdoor rated pool tables or ping pong tables transforming what had once been just a spot to sit away from some bug to a full family room experience.

Give us a call and we’d be happy to walk you through our portfolio of projects and see how we can help bring some fresh air into your home.

Renovation is hot in Atlanta once again and people are looking to increase the size and living space of their homes. We are often asked whether additional space is best acquired by building on with an addition or building up with a second story.
The answer, like just about all things relating to renovation, has some complicated variables. The answer may depend on the goals of the addition, style of the house, access to the new space and the land around the existing home. Often in Atlanta’s Intown neighborhoods where the lot size can be smaller and city demanded yard setbacks strict, building up is the way to go. Building up onto or creating a second floor maintains the yard around a home, often a premium. Also, when designed with care, a second floor addition can create an added charm to curb appeal and often provide a better resale value.

The next question to consider is cost effectiveness. The trickiest part and often the deciding factor in the up or out debate can fall to the stairs. If the stairway to the new space can be worked out without having to reverse the basement stairs and moving too many walls then building up often saves the cost of foundations and landscape disturbance. One must keep in mind that most second story additions require the reframing of the old ceiling joists to allow for floor loads. This is something typically done with a separate diaphragm system for ceiling and floor joists and has the added benefit of sound proofing, reduction of overall second floor addition height and minimizes the potential of plaster cracks.

In the end, our design staff is experienced with both vehicles to increase the size of your home in a way that is both practical financially and pleasing aesthetically.

The ranch home has long been a symbol for American suburban expansion and represents a period of economic growth after WWII. Young soldiers were home, starting families, and looking for housing.  The ranch provided an affordable entry into suburbia and became a staple in the architectural landscape of America.  The humble ranch had a lot going for it, an open floor plan, large building lots, access to yards, an affordable price tag, and typically well built.

For Atlantans, these ranches built in the 1950s are often found in desirable neighborhoods that have grown and changed around the ranch.  The large lot remains and can provide a fantastic setting to build upon.  The simple structure of the first floor of a ranch makes an easy “foundation” for a future two story home so many growing families now desire.  The neutral nature of the ranch is another selling point for renovation.  This blank palette can become a stately Tudor, traditional Georgian, or contemporary stunner. At Home ReBuilders, we have designed and built them all and have helped clients take their basic ranch in a beloved neighborhood, and turn it into the home of their dreams-whatever the style may be.

If you are thinking of adding to your family or just need some more room to grow, consider adding up on your ranch home. It is economical and proves to be one of the best returns on renovation investments of any project we know. By adding up on the home, you keep the first floor structure, basement, landscaping and hardscapes. Even if we take the existing ranch down to the first floor, the savings in a ranch conversion verse removing the home completely and building new is substantial, typically at least $100k. This can go a long way towards furniture, the kitchen and baths or college. So if you own a ranch or are perhaps looking to buy one, remember this style has a lot going for it!

Many of us have a dream house we have always envisioned. Maybe we look around our current home and wonder if there is more potential in its walls to unlock; bath renovation, and extra bedroom, a larger family space? Remodeling a home you currently own in a neighborhood you love is always a good consideration. If you find your “renovation list” becomes heavier than your “don’t touch” list you may want to consider a new custom home. There are several factors to put on the table and discuss.

How do you feel about the neighborhood you are in now? What are home values like? In so many of our in-town neighborhoods, the value of an older home is in the land and the location. If your neighbors have spent significant amounts on renovation, if home prices for renovated or newer homes on your street far exceed the value of your home, if you purchased an older home and have paid down a large portion of your mortgage, you might start thinking about tearing your home down and starting over. This time with your dream home in mind. This can feel like a drastic solution but often renovation costs on an older home with less than ideal foundations and infrastructure can start to exceed the cost to start from scratch.

After doing the math, we often find that starting from scratch for a custom home will add $150,000, give or take, to the equation.  A fully renovated older home may be around  $150,000 less than that new custom home. Then it is up to you whether the additional debt burden is worth the investment.

Maybe you have a neighborhood in mind, next to a great school, walking distance to parks and restaurants. Again the key is to closely evaluate neighborhood home values. Often small, original homes can be picked up at a price that equals the cost of the lot. Occasionally, lots are also available in sought after neighborhoods. This can be a bit of a quest to find the right spot, but with the valuable opinion of a builder and a real estate agent, you can find something.

Another great spot to start is to create a file of images of homes you love and features you feel are important in the interior. What is the style of architecture that interests you? Do you want a new home in keeping with original architecture of the area or are you drawn to clean, contemporary line? The more homework you can do to provide your architect and builder with a clear vision of your dream home, the more successful your project will be.

Bathroom renovations don’t have to be big, messy, expensive and painful. If you have a standard bathroom that has seen better days, a renovation can be easily within your reach. The key to a smooth bath remodel is planning. When a wise person said “the devil is in the details” one wonders if they were talking about home renovation!

The first step is to think about what doesn’t work in your space. That’s probably the easiest part and on the forefront of your mind. But maybe think a bit deeper. If lack of storage is something you struggle with, identify which specific items you can’t find homes for. Pill bottles, make up and small toiletries are best stored in medicine cabinets or drawers. If piles of clothes and stacks of towels are something you trip over, look to robe hooks, hamper storage or additional shelving.

Often a bathroom’s function is not the problem but the dated wallpaper and ancient accessories make getting ready in the morning a drag. Cosmetic changes can be a snap with the right experience and tools. If all of your plumbing locations and major fixtures are good enough to stay, fresh “make up” is easy. Small changes like paint color, new lighting fixtures, towel bars, shower curtains and window treatments can make a huge difference without huge upset to your home.

Now if tile needs to be replaced and your plumbing fixtures need to be replaced, start looking for brands, models and styles you like and are in your price range. It’s easy to say, “Replace my toilet” but it is always smoother if you have a clear idea of the model you like and its price tag. Is it in stock and available? Does the lavatory faucet that you have your heart set on have a coordinating shower set? Does it matter to you if all of your plumbing fixtures are the same? Information for home renovation has never been easier to access. All major plumbing brands have good websites with model numbers and specification. Big box stores can be a good source of ideas for materials either in person or on line. Internet sites such as Pinterest can provide endless inspiration for renovation.

Probably the biggest key to success in a bath renovation is your contractor or handyman. Find someone reputable with a good reputation and who has plenty of experience. And make sure you like them. They’ll be in your home, working on some intimate areas!

Our friends at This Old House wrote up a detailed primer on renovation loans and we thought we would share it. There are many ways to go about securing financing for a renovation. You’ll also find some links on our website of local banks and contacts we have used and recommend. The best time to start thinking about financing is right now.

Until recently, borrowing money for a new kitchen, second-story addition, or other home improvement meant going to the bank, seeing a loan officer, and hoping for the best. Today, however, you have many more options. A mortgage broker, for example, can offer more than 200 different loan programs. And brokers are just one of the many lenders eager to put together a loan that fits your situation — even if your credit history is less than perfect.

That means you might be able to borrow more money than you think. But with so many competing lenders, loan options, and terms, it also means loan shopping can be as challenging as house hunting. You can skip all the confusion and land on the right lending program by:

1. knowing how much money you need and roughly how much you can get from the start
2. narrowing the myriad loan options down to the ones that match your needs and finances
3. concentrating on the lenders that are likeliest to provide the type of loan you want.

How Much Can You Borrow?

Whether you hire a contractor or take on the work yourself, begin with an accurate estimate of what the project will cost. Lenders will insist on a specific figure before they work with you. If you’re hiring a contractor, start with a firm bid, broken down into labor and materials. Then add on 10 percent for surprises. On work you’ll do yourself, compile a detailed materials list with quantities, costs, and an accurate total. Include permit fees and equipment rental. Then add a cushion of 20 to 30 percent to be safe. Once you know how much you need, how much will you get? Despite the promises and hype lenders make in their ads and promotional materials, how much you can borrow hinges on your credit rating, the loan-to-value ratio, and your income. These factors also help determine the interest rate, the length of the loan, and whether you’ll pay points. Your credit rating. The best rates and terms go to homeowners with an A rating — no late payments in the last 12 months and no maxed-out credit cards. One or two late payments or overdrawn credit cards probably won’t knock you out of the game, but you might end up with a higher interest rate and a smaller loan.
Loan-to-value ratio. To determine the loan amount, lenders use the loan-to-value ratio (LTV), which is a percentage of the appraisal value of your home. The usual limit is 80 percent — or $100,000 for a $125,000 home (.805125,000). Lenders subtract the mortgage balance from that amount to arrive at the maximum you can borrow. Assuming your balance is $60,000, the largest loan that you can obtain is $40,000 ($100,000-$60,000=$40,000). If you have a good credit rating, a lender might base your loan on more than 80 percent of the LTV; if you don’t, you might get only 65 to 70 percent. While many lenders go to 100 percent of the LTV, interest rates and fees soar at these higher ratios.

Your income. If you also have high expenses, a high income level might not mean a larger loan. Lenders follow two rules to minimize their risk:

•Your house payment and other debt should be below 36 percent of your gross monthly income.

• Your house payment alone (including principal, interest, taxes, and insurance) should be no more than 28 percent of your gross monthly income. The maximum debt-to-income ratio rises to 42 percent on second mortgages. Some lenders go even higher, though fees and rates get expensive — as will your monthly payment. However, a debt-to-income ratio of 38 percent probably is the highest you should consider carrying.

The LTV determines how much you can borrow, and your debt-to-income ratio establishes the monthly payment for which you qualify. Within these two limits, the biggest trade-offs are interest rates, loan term, and points.

Interest rates. The less interest you pay, the more loan you can afford. An adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) is one way to lower that rate, at least temporarily. Because lenders aren’t locked into a fixed rate for 30 years, ARMs start off with much lower rates. But the rates can change every 6, 12, or 24 months thereafter. Most have yearly caps on increases and a ceiling on how high the rate climbs. But if rates climb quickly, so will your payments.

Loan term. The longer the loan, the lower the monthly payment. But total interest is much higher. That’s why you’ll pay far less for a 15-year loan than for a 30-year loan — if you can afford the higher monthly payments.

Points. Each point is an up-front cost equal to 1 percent of the loan. Points are interest paid in advance, and they can lower monthly payments. But if your credit is less than perfect, you’ll probably have to pay Loan shopping often starts with mainstream mortgages from banks, credit unions, and brokers. Like all mortgages, they use your home as collateral and the interest on them is deductible. Unlike some, however, these loans are insured by the Federal Housing Administration (FHA) or Veterans Administration (VA), or bought from your lender by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, two corporations set up by Congress for that purpose. Referred to as A loans from A lenders, they have the lowest interest. The catch: You need A credit to get them. Because you probably have a mortgage on your home, any home improvement mortgage really is a second mortgage. That might sound ominous, but a second mortgage probably costs less than refinancing if the rate on your existing one is low. Find out by averaging the rates for the first and second mortgages. If the result is lower than current rates, a second mortgage is cheaper. When should you refinance? If your home has appreciated considerably and you can refinance with a lower-interest, 15-year loan. Or, if the rate available on a refinance is less than the average of your first mortgage and a second one. If you’re not refinancing, consider these loan types: Home-equity loans. These mortgages offer the tax benefits of conventional mortgages without the closing costs. You get the entire loan up front and pay it off over 15 to 30 years. And because the interest usually is fixed, monthly payments are easy to budget. The drawback: Rates tend to be slightly higher than those for conventional mortgages. Home-equity lines of credit. These mortgages work kind of like credit cards: Lenders give you a ceiling to which you can borrow; then they charge interest on only the amount used. You can draw funds when you need them — a plus if your project spans many months. Some programs have a minimum withdrawal, while others have checkbook or credit-card access with no minimum. There are no closing costs. Interest rates are adjustable, with most tied to the prime rate. Most programs require repayment after 8 to 10 years. Banks, credit unions, brokerage houses, and finance companies all market these loans aggressively. Credit lines, fees, and interest rates vary widely, so shop carefully. Watch out for lenders that suck you in with a low initial rate, then jack it up. Find out how high the rate rises and how it’s figured. And be sure to compare the total annual percentage rate (APR) and the closing costs separately. This differs from other mortgages, where costs, such as appraisal, origination, and title fees, are figured into a bottom-line APR for comparisons simply to get the loan.
Which Lender for What?

For a home equity line of credit, the best place to start is your own bank or credit union. Both usually offer lower rates to depositors. Check other sources to be sure. If you get a second mortgage, refinance, or opt for an FHA 203(k) mortgage, you’re better off talking with a mortgage broker. A broker has more loan sources to choose from. When looking for a broker, check with people you know, and check any references you get. Contractors are another source of financing, but be wary: It’s hard enough to choose a contractor and a loan when they’re separate. And be suspicious of contractors who emphasize the monthly payment instead of the total cost of the job. A borrower’s bill of rights. Article Z of the federal Truth in Lending Act makes sizing up lenders and loans easier. It requires lenders to disclose interest rate, terms, costs, and variable-rate features in a total APR, a bottom line you can use to compare loans. Here are some other rights to remember:

• If a mortgage lender does not disclose the APR, any application fees must be refunded. You usually get these disclosures on a form with your loan application. If any terms change before closing, the lender must return all fees if the changes make you decide not to proceed.

• You have three days from the day of closing to cancel. Inform the lender in writing within that period and fees are refunded.

Fall is in the air. Even though the drop in temperature is slight here in Atlanta, it’s enough to get folks thinking about colder months ahead and toasty fires. Here are a few things to keep in mind if you are thinking about getting your fireplace ready for the season.

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, fireplaces and chimneys cause more than 25,000 house fires every year, resulting in at least 10 deaths annually. Some of the dangers of fireplace operation include the following: Sparks popping into the room and setting fire to rugs or furniture Combustible materials placed too close to the fire Chimney fires Carbon monoxide seeping into the house Harmful particles in smoke Careful operation and routine maintenance can minimize these dangers and allow you to use your fireplace in safer conditions. For example, an annual inspection is a must. As a homeowner, you can perform a basic inspection yourself. Is the chimney in good shape? Are there obvious leaks or stains? Does the flue have a cap? Does the damper seal off the flue completely? A professional chimney sweep will complete an internal inspection of the fireplace and flue and look for any internal or structural problems. He will also remove creosote buildup before it becomes dangerous. Creosote is the residue that results from fires and sometimes condenses on the inside of the flue. When it builds up, it can catch fire, resulting in chimney damage and potential spread of fire to the house. Keep in mind, though, that an open fireplace will usually result in some smoke entering the room. The particles in this smoke could aggravate the problems of those who already have respiratory conditions such as chronic bronchitis or asthma. Breathing particles over the long term can contribute to lung disease. Older adults and children are especially vulnerable. In order to lower the risk when using your fireplace, you should: Keep all combustibles a safe distance away from the hearth. Use a fire screen to prevent sparks. Install a spark arrester at the top of the flue to guard against roof fires. Keep a fire extinguisher handy. Install smoke detectors on every level of your home. You should also have a carbon monoxide detector.

Operating a traditional wood-burning fireplace is not difficult if you follow a few simple guidelines. First, you should begin by choosing the right fuel. Be sure to burn hard woods, such as hickory, ash, oak and hard maple. Soft woods such as pine and spruce generally don’t burn as well or provide as much heat. Also, be sure your wood is seasoned, or dry. Wood needs at least six months — many experts suggest at least a year — of drying to reach the 20 percent moisture level that is recommended for a good fire. One way to be sure your wood is seasoned is to knock two logs together and listen for a hollow sound, not a dull thud. Seasoned wood is also darker and has cracks in the end grain. Avoid using wet or rotten wood, and never burn trash or cardboard in your fireplace. Pressure-treated wood and chipboard are also inappropriate. To start the fire, you need kindling — smaller pieces of wood that will take flame easily. Stack a few split logs on your grate and place kindling around and below them. Make sure the damper is open before you light the kindling with newspaper. Don’t use too much paper, as flaming scraps can be carried up the flue and onto your roof. Never use gasoline, lighter fluid or a butane torch to start a fire. Once the fire is burning, you may still encounter problems with puffs of smoke entering the room. One cause of a smoking chimney is a house that’s too tight. If there aren’t enough openings to make up for the air drawn up the chimney, it can cause negative pressure in the room, creating a partial vacuum. Air pressure forces air down the chimney to compensate, resulting in a smoky house. The solution is to crack a window near the fireplace to let air in.

If you’re looking for a fireplace that gives you both efficiency and the pleasure of watching the flames dance, you might consider a gas model. You can’t roast marshmallows in them, but you’ll have the advantage of a clean and convenient source of heat. A modern gas fireplace emits no smoke and vents its waste gases to the outside through a tube in the wall rather than up a chimney. It incorporates air-movement channels that maximize the warmth supplied to the house. The fireplace consists of incombustible “logs” covering gas vents, and the fire itself burns behind glass doors. It gives off both radiant and convected heat and provides an experience similar to an open fire. One benefit of a gas fireplace is that it may help lower heating bills. It lets you heat the room you are spending time in while you keep your thermostat low and the rest of the house cooler. You stay toasty and your furnace gets a rest. Most gas fireplaces take advantage of sealed combustion. Their doors have gaskets that block all air. The fire draws air outside air through a pipe to support combustion, so no warm room air is drawn out of the house. If you want to add a fireplace to an existing home, a gas fireplace makes sense. Because it doesn’t require a massive masonry hearth and chimney, it can easily be included in a new family room. You sacrifice much less floor space and still have a fire to look at. You can also buy a gas fireplace insert that fits into a traditional fireplace hearth and boost its energy efficiency. As with its wood-burning counterpart, the gas insert has its own flue that snakes up the masonry chimney. Because gas burns very cleanly, there are even vent-free fireplaces on the market. In this case, the combustion products — carbon dioxide and water vapor — simply enter the room, along with all the heat produced. Although highly efficient, they are also subject to debate. In a tight home, a vent-free fireplace can deplete oxygen or create an excess of moisture. The American Lung Association warns buyers to be careful of the emissions given off by vent-free appliances [source: American Lung Association]. Gas fireplaces are easy to use and require little maintenance. Some come with a remote control, so that you can adjust them from across the room. You will occasionally have to remove dust, soot and carbon buildup from the logs and make sure the door gaskets are intact. As with any gas appliance, if you smell gas, turn off the supply and call an expert.